Tony takes a tumble

Today's plan was to escape the ring road of Koh Samui and try to find a track across the mountain range to the other side. Whilst the highest peak is less than 1,000m, the island only stretches approximately 25km in diameter, so this means an extreme climb and fall.

After some false starts we eventually located a concrete road that turned to gravel them compacted leaves, heading ever upwards. It wasn't until we cleared a particularly challenging ascent stretch that we stopped the bikes to realise we were actually on the very ridge of the range. The trail was metres wide and swept along the mountain ridge, falling away to the sea on either side. The landscape was not precipitous at all, with the slopes heavily wooded and roadside webs displaying unnervingly large specimens.

After appreciating the view of the entire island, we commenced a series of steep and rocky descents to get back to the bottom edge of the island. The skid plate on the bottom of the bike spat sparks repeatedly when the machine bottomed out on rocks and other obstacles.

One stretch proved overwhelming for the brakes on the bike, and they simply 'cooked off' - this is where the brake fluid literally boils and loses its viscosity, and hence it's ability to drive the hydraulics in the braking system. Result: no brakes. This occurred on a steep rocky decline where the bike continued to accelerate despite first gear engine braking and careful front brakes. I was left with no option other than to select a soft landing spot in the undergrowth and deliberately lay the bike down. It is always a difficult decision to do this, even more so in front of two merciless mates. Result, scratches and bruises to bike and rider, but no lasting damage to either.

The spill cost me the traditional round of Margaritas that evening, as we recapped the days highlights. At some point during the evening, a suggestion was made to do it all over again - at night.

Even with powerful LED driving lamps, riding on jungle trails at night is an eerie experience, The field of vision is narrowed to the scope of the lamps, and you are aware of the jungle either side of the road but nothing beyond that. Insects and other critters flit through the beams, and the night noises are quite different to daytime.

After a combination of rock and loose powder, Gary decided that he would not be wise to continue any further at night, so we all turned the bikes around and headed back down the mountain. Happy.