Surat Thani to Ranong

Blasting off the ferry from Koh Samui, we were geared up for a short 200km stretch of mountain riding across the peninsula to Ranong. As we saddled up in the bowels of the ferry waiting for the ramp to be lowered, Gary noted that the crossing had passed quite quickly and we congratulated ourselves on the decision to catch a boat direct to Surat Thani.

Once up the ramp and out onto the provincial highway we were hit with a strong sense of déjà vu. This was attributed us joint the incorrect line on the dock and catching the wrong bloody ferry. Our 'short' crossing had been busy taking us backwards to Don Sak (where we started from 36 hours ago). We like to think that we have enriched the cultural perspective of some nearby locals as we introduced them to colourful Australian language.

By lunchtime we had regained lost ground and were charging through the mountains at a great pace. The roads across the peninsula are listed as provincial, but are tarmac surfaced and extremely well maintained. We took full advantage of this with a hot pace and some exhilarating riding.

Sometime mid afternoon Gary required a bathroom stop, so we rolled gently into a small town centre, really just a collection of small shops and houses bordering the tarmac. Not a word of English was spoken in the town, and Gary investigated various storerooms and sheds, watched by a bewildered group of onlookers. Not locating any facilities, he engaged in an increasingly animated (and hilarious) pantomime to make his needs known.

Eventually, one of the men led him into a nearby house. Leaving Gary inside, he announced to the now-larger group "pookie, pookie". We are reasonably certain of the translation based on the huge guffaw from the entire group, all of which sat around to wait out the next 20 minutes (yes, 20 minutes) to see Gary emerge. Ty and I were laughing right along with them, and for much the same reasons.

On our arrival in Ranong just after dusk, we decided to locate the port and immigration facilities before finding dinner and lodgings. A young lady on a moped kindly offered to guide us for the 15km or so, and handed us over to the local police. The station attendant immediately ushered us through into the station and we were introduced to the local boss 'Rambo' (seriously). Rambo is muscular, heavily built for a Thai guy, rides a custom Harley, and has clearly watched waaaaayyy to many Sylvester Stallone movies. After a Rocky start (sorry, couldn't resist that) by offering to help us through the emigration / immigration process. He actually does seem like a great guy and I am sure will be invaluable tomorrow.

He has warned us though that he thinks getting the bikes across to Songthiew will not be possible. The longboats are very narrow and really only designed for people and parcel freight. We intend to try lashing three or more together to support each bike and hopefully make the 20 minute crossing in one piece.

It should be an interesting day tomorrow. .....